Lyric Security System: Mounting Controller to Backplate

Lyric Security System: Mounting Controller to Backplate

So, we now have our backplate mounted. You
can see our hole came perfect where our wire is coming in through the back here. It’s going
to connect to these terminals here for power. We’ve got our battery. On the LYNX Touch,
you just have to install this battery and fit a piece of plastic to hold it down. On
the Lyric, they made it a little bit easier. All you have to do is just plug this clip
into this three-prong port. You can’t mess this up, there’s only one way it fits. So,
you just stick it down into place and plug it in. You should always plug the battery
in before your DC transformer is putting power to the panel. So I went ahead and just got
the battery connected first. And now I’m going to point a few things out
here. So, one is this tamper. So this switch here is an actual push button, and on the
circuit board is a tamper switch. So if this gets removed from the wall plate, this little
piece of plastic that sticks out, holds this switch down so when the panel is closed up,
it’s in place. If someone were to open the front from the back, this will pull away from
here and then you’ll get a “Cover Tamper,” letting you know someone is messing with your
system. If this was screwed in here to a wall stud and instead of opening the panel, they
ripped the whole panel off, because these are just…screws the wall anchors to the
drywall, with enough force, those would just rip out. But if this is all the way into a stud, that
piece of plastic would hold to the stud, everything else would rip away. And again, because this
piece left behind that has the post that holds down the tamper, you would get a “Wall Tamper.”
I mean, it’ll report as the same tamper but basically, you’re case-tamper protected and
you’re wall-tamper protected when you’re installed to a stud properly. We didn’t do that here,
but hopefully, that’s enough of an explanation on the theory behind that. So if you did install
it right on the stud there, you can be secure both ways. On this strip of screw terminals internally
here, we talked earlier about how this Lyric panel has no option for a barrel plug input.
If you’ve seen the LT cable, which is a pre-made cable that allows you to plug in the LYNX
touch panel without stripping wire and splicing it. The Lyric does not have that option, so
you’re going to have to connect your power wire, which will be connected to your transformer
plugged into the outlet. You’re going to have to splice it in to these screw terminals and
basically, there’s an input on the back here. When you undo the screw, it opens up, you
stick your wire in and you screw it down, and it holds it nice and tight. So these are
easy to work with. You just have to be able to strip your wire and know where you’re connecting
here. So, on this strip, there’s five terminals
labeled HWZ2, GND, HWZ1, +9VDC and GND. And what these five terminals are for is HWZ2
and HWZ1 is “Hard Wire Zone 1” and “Hard Wire Zone 2.” Each wired zone is a two-wire connection
from the sensor, the door contact, into the panel. And one connection will go to HW1 or
HWZ1 or HWZ…I’m sorry. Your connection will go to HWZ1 and ground, or GND, the one that’s
in between the two hardwired zones, or HWZ2 and ground. So they’re going to share the
ground, and the HWZ2 or HWZ1 is the positive side of that zone. So if you had two sensors,
you would have your two wires coming in. Both sets of wires from the contacts would have
one wire going to GND, and then one wire going to HWZ2 and HWZ1. The +9VDC and the GND all
the way to the right, that’s another ground and your positive +9VDC power coming from
your 9-volt DC transformer. So that’s what 9V DC means, 9 volts DC current. So we talked how your transformer is going
to take your 120 Volts from the outlet, and take it down to 9 Volts for the transformer,
because the panel accepts 9 Volts. So we just have to strip our wire here, and then we can
make our connections. So when stripping the wire, you just want to go back a couple inches.
And at the base of any stripper, you have kind of like a sharp cutter that you can use
to put a little pressure, making sure not to nick the internal conductor but basically,
strip off the insulating sheath. And then we have our two 18-gauge conductors,
internally here: red for positive is convention, and black for negative. So we’re going to
use that and we just want to strip 18-gauge. We want to strip this jacket, this red jacket
off, so we just have the exposed wire. And we’re going to do maybe half-inch, just so
we have enough exposed to make a good connection into our screw terminal, and not have any
extra exposed to potentially short anything out or have any issues. So, quarter-inch,
half-inch on each black and red. Because this is stranded wire, we’re going
to twist it at the end to make a nice, tight connection so it doesn’t get all frayed and
jumbled up when we’re inserting it into the holes. And of course, when we’re doing this,
we haven’t even connected our transformer on the other side, so these are not powered.
There’s no potential issue with connecting to the wrong terminals. There’s no power,
no juice on this wire at all. So I always urge you to make these connections at the
panel before you make the transformer connections, and before you ever plug the transformer into
the wall. Now that we’ve stripped our wire, we’re going
to loosen up these terminals. This terminal strip uses actually a flat-head screwdriver.
So we talked earlier how this screwdriver happens to have double-ended Phillips head
flat-head on both with various sizes, a smaller side and a bigger side. So, we use the flat-head
and we open up this terminal. I don’t know if the video is going to be able to catch
this, but as you open these terminals up, it actually elongates down on the bottom and
you now have a little cavity at the top to insert your wire. And again, on most Honeywell
systems, they’re AC transformers with no polarity. So when you’re connecting your power from
your transformer to your panel, it doesn’t matter positive or negative. You just have
to make your two connections. With a Lyric panel, just like on a LYNX Touch
panel, it is polarity because it’s a DC transformer so you want to make sure that you’re connecting
red to +9VDC, and then screwing it down tight. And again, you really don’t want any exposed
wire to be showing outside of the terminal there, so that’s why I said about quarter-inch,
maybe half-inch stripping at the end there. And that way, you have your insulating red
jacket with no extra wire exposed. And then your negative side, or your black wire, goes
to the last GND terminal all the way to the right. And GND, again, stands for ground.
And we screw this down nice and tight. We don’t want these wires to ever come loose
accidentally, or over time. We don’t want them to ever fall out, so we want to make
sure this is tight as possible without going overboard, but a nice, tight connection. Give
a little tug, you shouldn’t have any slack. Neither conductor should come out at all with
a little tug. All right, so we push this wire into the cavity
behind the panel there, into the wall. We can disconnect our third hand, and there’s
three tabs at the top that fit into three notches at the top of the panel. We’ve already
made our battery connection, so we won’t have to get back in here. And we latch it at the
top. Make sure we’re not pinching the wire on the back by, again, putting it deep into
the cavity here, and you can always pull down below. And now our Lyric is nicely installed
on the wall, secure to the backplate. This panel is not going anywhere. We can close
it up, finish off the installation by using this smaller screw. So in that bag of screws
that comes with the Lyric, you’ll have five of the same size screw, and one slightly…well,
one much smaller screw. And that smaller screw goes up underneath. A little tricky to get to this screw underneath
the panel, but you want to just get it as tight in there as possible, so that now if
someone puts pressure from the bottom or from the top, this things is not moving off. And
if anyone ever did have to get inside there, instead of just being able to pop it off and
potentially defeat the system, or try to defeat the system, you wouldn’t have as much easy
access. You’d have to undo the screw, first.

2 Replies to “Lyric Security System: Mounting Controller to Backplate”

  1. could you make a video on how to learn in a z wave door lock? i have an install this coming week and the company i work for just dumped these panels on us but never taught us how to use them

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